Pronounced Chahng-goo. A town with 6 breaks that are reliable swell magnets, always 2 or 3 feet bigger than Kuta, so it gets very crowded on small swells. To get to the best break drive 45 minutes north of Kuta along Jalan Legian. Turn left at Kerobokan traffic lights, follow signs to “TPA Sampah Canggu” and then left to Pererenan.

This world-class right peak tubes over volcanic black lava rock, with three fun lefts nearby. It’s a good intermediate area between the safety of the beachbreaks and the dangers of the coral reefs.

The trade winds blow side-shore by 10am, so get there at sunrise on a high tide for Pererenan right, or mid tide for the Sandbar lefts.

You can find less intense, easier rolling waves one kilometre south at Berawa (Echo Beach) or by following the signs to the Tugu Hotel (Old Mans).
The Canggu area has boomed in the last five years, with dozens of groovy new villas and hipster cafes. Where to stay: Kima Surfaris has great Villas and a Surfcamp a short walk to the surf: www. kimasurf.com